Confusingly, the variables in Wikipedia's description of smoothed LDA don't follow the paper introducing LDA. In the paper, $\beta$ is first described exactly as you've described it:
...the word probabilities are parameterized by a $k ×V$ matrix $\beta$ where $\beta_{ij} = p(w_j = 1|z_i = 1)$, which for now we treat as a fixed quantity that is to be estimated.
The authors later introduce smoothed LDA, in which each row of $\beta$ is drawn from an exchangeable Dirichlet with prior parameter $\eta$. Wikipedia presently uses $\beta$ where the paper uses $\eta$, and $\varphi$ where the paper uses $\beta$.
Here's the plate notation from the paper:

And from wiki:

I'm not sure which is more common in implementations. For example, scikit-learn
uses $\eta$ for the prior.