I found the introduction of paper, "Can Shared-Neighbor Distances Defeat the Curse of Dimensionality" by Houle et al (2010) to be helpful. Particularly, they make the distinction between dimensions bearing relevant information and irrelevant information. For example, two Gaussian distribution clusters with separated means are more easily separated as dimension increases. On the other hand, if "irrelevant" features (e.g. pure noise) are added as additional dimensions, the separability will not be improved.
As such, it makes a great deal of sense that in Figure 5B in Gretton et al. (2012), the performance of the MMD improves when separating Gaussians in higher dimensions. Intuitively, since the Gaussians are "separate" on each new dimension, it can be thought of as "additional information" and hence, is helpful. If pure noise were added as additional dimensions, I would expect the performance of the MMD to decrease. Indeed, as @air's citation demonstrates, the MMD does suffer from the curse of dimensionality.
However, that does not mean that it is not vastly superior to density estimation in the high dimensional setting. Density estimation in high dimensions is a very hard problem. Below is a table quoted in Wasserman et al. 2006 (section 6.5) that shows sample size necessary to ensure a relative mean squared error of less than 0.1 at 0 when the density is Gaussian and the optimal bandwidth is chosen:
The sample size is increasing very quickly with dimension. This is because the L2 error converges as $O(n^{-4/(4+d)})$, when the optimal bandwidth is used, where d is the dimension. The point is that to do density estimation in high dimensions, you need huge samples.
My intuition is that as the number of dimensions increases, the "volume" of the space is increasing exponentially. And hence, if you are going to try and do density estimation by splitting the volume up into small hypercubes and count the number of points in each, you will need exponentially many hypercubes. Kernel MMD, on the other hand, is only looking at pairwise distance between points, and not integrating over the space in which the points lie. As such, it does not care if there is a huge volume of empty space. Of course, as dimensionality increases, all points become increasingly equidistant, and hence the performance of any metric-based method will degrade, but apparently this effect is not as dramatic.
One other point of confusion for me was that although Kernel MMD allows you to perform a two sample test without density estimation, in section 3.3.1, they show that the L2 distance between Parzen window density estimates is a special case of the MMD. So, clearly, if you choose a specific kernel they describe, then the kernel MMD is exactly doing density estimation, and hence, I presume, it will scale just as poorly with increasing dimension. Indeed, the kernel $k (x,y) =\int \kappa(x - z) \kappa(y-z) dz$ derived in 3.3.1, for which testing using the kernel MMD coincides with taking the L2 distance between density estimates, is integrating over the underlying space--just as in density estimation--unlike say, if a Gaussian RBF kernel were used instead.