So you're okay with $max((Ax)^T(Ax))$ but not $max(x^T(A^TA)x)$.
You may already know that we can get equivalence between these by just applying a few basic rules of matrix algebra -- transpose of product, and associativity:
$$(Ax)^T(Ax) = (x^TA^T)(Ax) = x^TA^TAx = x^T(A^TA)x.$$
Even if you already know this you may want different ways to interpret the expression depending on where we put the parentheses. I get that. It might be useful to try to gain intuition for matrix associativity beyond simple algebraic proofs in a more general context than statistical matrices. But I can try to talk about the statistical interpretations.
For this to apply to covariance matrices and maximizing variance, then $A$ has to be centered.
Let
$$
A =
\begin{bmatrix}
x_1 & y_1 & z_1 \\
x_2 & y_2 & z_2 \\
\vdots & \vdots & \vdots\\
x_n & y_n & z_n
\end{bmatrix}
$$
We have $n$ samples / data points / whatever, and each one is a 3-dimensional (row) vector. The matrix shape is n-by-3.
connection betwen variance and length
There are actually two lengths of interest here -- the length of our data points (their distance from the origin) in the 3-dimensional row world, and the "length" of each variable in the n-dimensional column world.
Each sample (row), like $r_1 = \left[x_1\;y_1\;z_1\right]$, has a length (the point's distance from the origin):
$$\|r_1\| = \sqrt{\left<r_1, r_1\right>} = \sqrt{x_1^2 + y_1^2 + z_1^2}$$
At the same time, the column vector corresponding to just one of our variables (one dimension of our samples)
$$X =
\begin{bmatrix}
x_1 \\
\vdots \\
x_n
\end{bmatrix}
$$
has a length. First, consider the squared length:
$$X^TX = x_1^2 + \dots + x_n^2$$.
This should look reminiscent of $Var(X)$. Recall,
$Var(X) = E(X^2) - E(X)^2.$
Since $A$ is centered (the columns have sum/mean zero), $E(X)^2 = 0$. The only thing missing is dividing by $n$ to get a mean instead of a sum . So
$$Var(X) = \frac{X^TX}{n} \propto X^TX = \|X\|^2$$
and, for fun,
$$stdev(X) = \frac{\|X\|}{\sqrt{n}}$$
So we can basically ignore normalizing by $n$ and more or less picture $Var(X)$ as the squared length of the vector $X$. Maximizing one is equivalent to maximizing the other since $n$ is constant. Remember, this only works because $A$ is centered.
Let's introduce a unit vector $u$. Using the basic definition of matrix multiplication, and recalling that we've named the $ith$ row of $A$ (the $ith$ data point) $r_i$,
$$Au =
\begin{bmatrix}
\left<r_1, u\right>\\
\vdots \\
\left<r_n, u\right>\\
\end{bmatrix} =
\begin{bmatrix}
p_1 \\
\vdots \\
p_n
\end{bmatrix} = P
$$
Let's look at the lengths in the two worlds again.
$Au$ is an n-by-1 matrix. We've also named this result $P$. The rows are 1-dimensional. Keep in mind the difference between the projection of one vector onto another, which is a vector in the original 3-d space, and the (signed) length / magnitude of that projection, which is a scalar, or perhaps a 1-d vector. When we say "project the rows of $A$ onto $u$", it can be ambiguous which we mean. For now, we're interested in the latter. Since $u$ is unit-length, $\left<r_i, u\right>$ is the (signed) length of the projection of $r_i$ onto $u$. It's 1-dimensional. Think of this as a compressed version of our data. Instead of a 3-d scatter plot (the $r$'s), we now have a 1-d scatter plot (the $p$'s).
Since they're 1-dimensional, computing row lengths is trivial: $\|p_i\| = \sqrt{\left<p_i, p_i\right>} = \sqrt{p_i^2} = p_i$
Hopefully it's not too confusing that I'm kind of using $p_i$ as both a 1-d vector and as a straight-up scalar real number there. Whereas before we had
$$r_i = \left[x_i\;y_i\;z_i\right]$$
we now are doing
$$p_i = \left[p_i\right]$$
which isn't great but maybe not worth the trouble to avoid.
In the same way that we considered the $p$'s to be our new data points, we can consider $P$ to be a new, single random variable, in place of $X$, $Y$, and $Z$.
Like before (since $P$ has zero mean again since its a linear combination of $X$, $Y$, and $Z$),
$$Var(P) \propto P^TP = p_0^2 + \dots + p_n^2$$
what's interesting here is that last expression. Since $P$ is a vector whose entries are $p_i$, which are (trivially) the lengths of our new 1-d data points, $P^TP$ is the sum of the squared lengths of our 1-d data points. And so $Var(P)$ is basically (disregarding having to divide by $n$) the sum of the squared lengths of our data points. More strictly, $Var(P)$ is the average of these squared lengths (sum, then divide by $n$). To be super explicit,
$$nVar(P) = \|P\|^2 = P^TP = p_0^2 + \dots + p_n^2 = \|p_0\|^2 + \dots + \|p_n\|^2$$
So that's the connection between variance and lengths. Variance is conceptually very close the squared length of our column, which in the univariate case (1-dimensional data points), turns out to be the sum of the squared lengths of our data points. Maximizing one or the other is equivalent.
interpreting different sub-expressions of $u^TA^TAu$
$Au$ produces $P$, which is a set of 1-dimensional data points determined by the projection of the original points onto $u$.
Then, $A^T(Au)$ will be a 3-by-1 list of inner products of $P$ with each of $X$, $Y$, and $Z$.
$$A^T(Au) =
A^TP =
\begin{bmatrix}
X^TP \\
Y^TP \\
Z^TP
\end{bmatrix}
$$
In the same way that $Var(X) \propto X^TX$, try to work out for yourself that $Cov(X, P) \propto X^TP$ (when $X$ and $P$ have zero mean, which they do here).
Lastly,
$$u^T(A^T(Au)) =
\begin{bmatrix}u_x & u_y & u_z\end{bmatrix}
\begin{bmatrix}
X^TP \\
Y^TP \\
Z^TP
\end{bmatrix} =
u_x (X^TP) + u_y (Y^TP) + u_z (Z^TP)
$$
You could try to think of this as projecting that vector of covariances of $P$ with the original 3 variables ($A^TAu$) onto $u$. I don't think I've ever heard any one explicitly mention this interpretation even though it's pretty straightforward to arrive to, if not deeply grasp. But ultimately,
$$
u_x (X^TP) + u_y (Y^TP) + u_z (Z^TP) = (u_xX + u_yY + u_zZ)^TP = P^TP = (Au)^T(Au)
$$
and that last expression is how most people interpret all of this -- the variance (not yet divided by $n$) of your new random variable $P$, which is its squared Euclidean length since $P$ is centered.
Some other useful resources in this area: