I will use vector and matrices rather than summations because this
makes the results easier to check e.g. using R. Let $\mathbf{x} :=
[x_1, \, \dots, \, x_n]^\top$ and $\boldsymbol{\varepsilon} :=
[\varepsilon_1, \, \dots, \, \varepsilon_n]^\top$. I will assume that
$\mu = 0$, with no loss of generality because we focus on an
expectation. I will denote the variance as $v := x^{\text{var}}_n$ to
simplify.
It is easy to see that $v = (n-1)^{-1} \mathbf{x}^\top \mathbf{Q}
\mathbf{x}$ where the $n \times n$ matrix $\mathbf{Q}$ is defined by
$\mathbf{Q} := \mathbf{I} - n^{-1} \, \mathbf{J}$
where $\mathbf{I}$ is the identity matrix and $\mathbf{J}$ is the matrix of
ones. Indeed, subtracting its mean to $\mathbf{x}$ results in $\mathbf{z} = \mathbf{x} - n^{-1} [\mathbf{1}^\top \mathbf{x}] \mathbf{1} = \mathbf{Q}\mathbf{x}$. Note that $\mathbf{Q}$ is symmetric and $\mathbf{Q}^2 = \mathbf{Q}$.
I will assume that the AR starts with $x_1$ having the variance
$\sigma_\varepsilon^2$ which is not the stationary initial
condition (this will be further discussed later). Then
$\boldsymbol{\varepsilon} = \mathbf{L} \mathbf{x}$ where $\mathbf{L}$
and its inverse are
$$
\mathbf{L} =
\begin{bmatrix}
1 & & & & \\
-\rho & 1 & & & \\
& \ddots & \ddots & & \\
& & & & \\
& & & -\rho & 1
\end{bmatrix}
\qquad
\mathbf{L}^{-1} =
\begin{bmatrix}
1 & & & & \\
\rho & 1 & & & \\
\rho^2 &\ddots & \ddots & & \\
& & & & \\
\rho^{n-1} & & & \rho & 1
\end{bmatrix}
$$
where the non-displayed elements are zeros. So $\mathbf{L}$ and $\mathbf{L}^{-1}$ are lower
triangular Toeplitz matrices. Now
$$
v = \frac{1}{n-1} \, \mathbf{x}^\top \mathbf{Q} \mathbf{x} =
\frac{1}{n-1} \, \varepsilon^\top \mathbf{L}^{-\top} \mathbf{Q} \mathbf{L}^{-1}
\boldsymbol{\varepsilon}.
$$
But if $\mathbf{A}$ is a square matrix we have
$\mathbb{E}[\boldsymbol{\varepsilon}^\top \mathbf{A} \boldsymbol{\varepsilon}] =
\sigma^2_\varepsilon \, \text{tr}(\mathbf{A})$. The trace being linear
with the property $\text{tr}(\mathbf{A}\mathbf{B}) = \text{tr}(\mathbf{B}\mathbf{A})$ we get with $\mathbf{M} := \mathbf{L}^{-1} \mathbf{L}^{-\top}$
$$
\mathbb{E}[v] = \frac{\sigma^2_\varepsilon}{n-1} \,
\text{tr}(\mathbf{Q} \mathbf{L}^{-1} \mathbf{L}^{-\top}) =
\frac{\sigma^2_\varepsilon}{n-1} \,
\left\{ \text{tr}(\mathbf{M}) - \frac{1}{n} \, \text{tr}(\mathbf{J}\mathbf{M}) \right\}
$$
It is easy to see that the diagonal element of $\mathbf{M}$ is $M_{ii}
= 1 + \rho^2 + \dots + \rho^{2i}$ and with simple algebra
$$
\text{tr}(\mathbf{M}) = \sum_{i=1}^n \sum_{j=0}^i \rho^{2j} =
\frac{n}{1 - \rho^2} - \frac{\rho^2 \, [1 - \rho^{2n}]}{[1- \rho^2]^2}.
$$
Now $\text{tr}(\mathbf{J}\mathbf{M})=
\mathbf{1}^\top \mathbf{M} \mathbf{1} = \mathbf{u}^\top \mathbf{u}$
where $\mathbf{u} := \mathbf{L^{-\top}} \mathbf{1}$ with element
$u_i = \sum_{j=0}^{n - i} \rho^j = [1 - \rho^{n -i +1}] / [1 - \rho]$.
Using $j = n + 1 - i$ as summation index
$$
\text{tr}(\mathbf{J}\mathbf{M}) = \sum_{j=1}^n
\left[\frac{1 - \rho^j}{1 - \rho}\right]^2 = \frac{1}{[1 - \rho]^2}
\left\{ n - 2 \rho \frac{1 - \rho^n}{1 - \rho} +
\rho^2 \frac{1 - \rho^{2 n}}{1 - \rho^2} \right\}.
$$
So we have a closed form expression for $\mathbb{E}[v]$.
For large $n$ we have
$\mathbb{E}[v] \sim \sigma^2_\varepsilon / [1 - \rho^2]$
If we turn to the case of a stationary AR we have to take $x_1$ as having
the stationary variance $\sigma^2_\varepsilon / [1 - \rho^2]$ so we have
to change the element $L_{1,1}$. I fear that
the closed form expression will be even more complex, yet the asymptotic
behaviour for large $n$ will remain unchanged.