Criteria for selection
Now that you have the expression, you can either perform the selection based on purely heuristic criteria (e.g., WAIC or cross-validation), or based on prior knowledge. For example, if you know from Physics that for $\Vert \mathbf{x} \Vert_2\to\infty$, your response should be a linear function of the inputs, you will select a mean function which is a linear polynomial, if you know that it must become periodic, you will choose a Fourier basis, etc.
Another possible criterion is interpretability: for obvious reasons, a GP is not the most immediately interpretable model, but if you use a linear mean function, then at least asymptotically, when the effects of the kernel have "died out", you can interpret the coefficients of the linear model as a sort of effect size.
Finally, nonconstant mean functions can be used to show the strict relationship between spline models, Generalized Additive Models (GAMs) and Gaussian Processes.